Rome

Not all ways lead directly to the goal: the Roman Micaela Calabresi Marconi made a detour and studied law. Only afterwards she was certain: she needs something where she can build and maintain relationships, a job in communication. Armani, Pucci, Zegna and Versace crossed her way, and she eventually opened an own event agency. But that wasn't enough. At the peak of the economic crisis Marconi took over Saddlers Union and together with her brother Paolo she dusted off the forgotten brand that specialises in historic, handmade leather articles. The new address? Via Margutta 11, the street of craftsmen, similar to Montmartre in Paris. Federico Fellini had his residence here - and for Marconi it was the ideal spot for a Saddlers Union boutique. Today only those who know where they want to go will find Saddlers Union. A door plate is missing - it's a cosy, private house with a workshop where favourite pieces can be repaired on the spot if need be. Marconi found her calling.

A concept store should have a clear concept. The weTAD founders knew from the beginning that they wanted to open a flower shop. Still, you have to put them into something and so they also started to sell vases. And once there is such a nice smell, why not sell a few beautifully scented cosmetics along with it? O.k. And a hairdresser would also go well with the cosmetics. Wearing artistic creations on your head, why not put some on the wall, too? Oh, you look tired, how about an espresso in our café? Or just lay down for a bit on our sofas here, which, by the way, are also for sale. This is how it probably happened, because today the weTAD Concept Store sells just about anything: Flowers, modern art, furniture, coffee and night lotions. And, of course, fashion, preferably from Vivienne Westwood and Alexander Wang. Never seen anything like that? Then it's time to take a look into the weTAD Concept Store, which has everything except for a concept.

Rome is ancient, but the brands of its stylish shops are always the latest. You will find the In stuff in the Nuyorica, which is Latin American for New York. Inside you will find everything that's hot, from Japan to New York. Of course, it's changing by the second, but currently it's Atsuro Tayama, Maria Chen, Balenciaga, Erotokritos, Nina Hohendorf or Girbaud. In the middle there is a surprising collection of classics: Marc Jacobs is the top dog, and Chloe shoes go well with the trendy garments. Some gossip to go: Cameron Diaz is rumoured to have been here! Around the corner there is a separate shop for bags: The Nuyorica Roots in the Via del Pellegrino 15.

The Pommidoro is all game: Grilled meat on the menu includes deer, wild boar and so forth. The classic: Pappardelle, that is tagliatelle in wild boar sauce or fettuccine with vegetables from the garden. Talking of which: Pommidoro means pomodoro in Rom, that is tomato, and is the nick name of the owner named Aldo. Whether or not he is just as red and round as his namesake, we couldn't determine.However, the German daily Süddeutsche Zeitung dedicated a whole page to his wife Anna, who has served no less than 160,000 meals to her guests, filled with good, Roman specialties and lots of game. She and her husband seem to attract wild spirits: The restaurant is Roberto Benigni's and Pedro Almodovar's favourite, and no one other than Pier Paolo Pasolini enjoyed his wild boar here.

Up and down the steps, nothing to see but sights: The Spanish Steps are surly THE starting point for all the attractions of the city. The locals know that, too, congregating there for wine, women and La Dolce Vita.  Warm summer nights see the young sitting on the steps and celebrating late into the night. So sit down and take in the view! Turn one way and you see the church Trinità dei Monti at the upper end. Turn the other way and the ship shaped Fontana della Barcaccia bubbles along in its pomp. On the right hand side there is the Keats-Shelley museum, where John Keats lived and died. To your left Babington's Tea Room invites you to have a tea at English tea time. When you get up and follow the Via Condotti you'll be surrounded by the most exclusive shops and restaurants in the city. Can you pass this by? Just stay for a little while longer. Enjoy your vino. Enjoy the Dolce Vita with the Romans. Sightseeing can wait!

Can you still remember the good old days? Chocolate, strawberry, vanilla, period. Good kids could have them all, bad kids none at all. If you go the Gelateria della Palma today, you will be bowled over. With an estimated 150 ice cream flavours, you won't just be spoilt for choice but shocked and awed. And this is how it works: Go in, buy a coupon at the cash register, and then queue. It is almost impossible to decide on the flavours beforehand, considering that there are exotic options such as liquorice, passion fruit, chilli pepper or cherry chocolate.For tourists without advanced Italian the garnishing gives enough hints on what a flavour might be all about. There is soy ice cream for the lactose intolerant and sugar free for the calorie conscious, spoiling the choice even more. Since the cone for 150 flavours hasn't been invented just yet, you'll simply have to come back.

No juice bar, but a refreshing and fruity boutique hotel: The Orange Hotel wins you over with its original design and wonderful view. You guessed it? Yes, it's orange all over. Yet they didn't overdo it and mixed the strong colour with a subdued grey, resulting in a joyful impression. A clear concept, modern and stylish execution, the rooms are straightforward and not overloaded. The Deluxe Orange even offers free room service for an extra serving of vitamins, however, those who have enough of orange on grey should move over to red and take a wine on the amazing rooftop terrace. Along with the Chianti you get a free view of cupola of St. Peter's Basilica, which is less than a hallelujah away from the hotel. Big plus: It's a juicy deal, with doubles starting at 69,- Euro.

The Fortyseven ist almost 50, the furnishings are not: Real classics from the 50s contrast with a facade from the 30s, and all close to the truly ancient Temple of Vesta. To complete the colourful mix of the decades and centuries there is 20th century art by Amadeo Modigliani, Umberto Mastroianni and Emilio Greco as well as modern rooms with wood panelled floors and Art Deco flair. The padded walls of the suite do bring up uneasy associations with certain white rooms, yet comfortable they are. At least you won't get hurt and can enjoy the room service around the clock. The Fortyseven offers even more: Fitness centre and wellness as well as a rooftop restaurant for every one who wants to fill up with tasty calories looking out onto the Circus Maximus. Doubles starting at 240,- Euro per night.

For a long time there were only two ways to Rome: Via the golden baroque hotels with their outrageous interior design or via the avant-garde hotels with their hysterical modernism, which seems to cater more to museum rooms than to living creatures. The gap between both philosophies was filled by the Hotel Capo D'Africa: It is service-oriented without being overbearing, modern without seeming sterile, and it has a long history. What else is new in Rome? The former schoolhouse is not the severe type: Bright colours, bright wood and very spacious rooms easily make you forget the times when exams still took place in those same rooms. Those with some nostalgia for the cane can hire a personal trainer at the fitness center. You can easily catch up with the lost calories in the rooftop restaurant, which offers great food, a beautiful view and lots of calm near the collosseum. The Capo D'Africa is surely less spectacular than other hotels, and it isn't high art. Yet for those who seek the golden mean it means they have hit home. Doubles starting at 189,- Euro per night.

Once the Globe theatre was the centre of the action, today the Teatro Dell'Orologio is rocking the boat: This small theatre has left the mainstream and is as off-Broadway as you can be. Far beyond classical tragedy, the theatre is experimenting to such an extent that critics are left speechless. You might recognize the plays, but you will never have seen them like this: Ionesco, Genet, Becket and Maeterlinck are all rediscovered in strange ways. Shakespeare would be delighted and Brecht overjoyed: The Teatro dell'Orologia lacks the technical sophistication of the great stages, but its dedication to the art that makes this theatre so special. Valentino Orfeo is the artistic director, but other directors also play their parts. To be there or not to be? Poor Yorick would have had no doubt!

It took ten years, various culture secretaries and 150 million euro to complete the eccentric building designed by star architect Zaha Hadid. She especially put emphasis on the interaction between glass, fair-faced concrete and metal. Once again it becomes obvious: it's not only art, but also architecture which is maximal here in the Flaminio quarter. The 27.000 square metres of the area with its 20 metres high entrance hall forms an open, urban space and guides the visitors along curved walls and interwoven levels on unexpected paths through five galleries. In the well-lit museum (thanks to the glass roof) we find the two museums MAXXI art and MAXXI architecture. The house is devoted to preserve and conserve the cultural heritage by means of exhibitions, workshops, performances and (educational) projects. But more: it offers space for experimenting and exploring modern aesthetic contents. Tickets for 11 euro (reductions possible).

Who's better, the Swedes or the Italians? Last year most would have said that it depends on your tastes. The Italians have traditionally specialized in baroque knickknacks, lots of brocade and kitsch ribbons, while the Swedes swore by practical, striped and minimalist furniture. Now everything is different, because today everyone agrees: Back to the roots, charming and cosy furniture made of precious wood should help you live the easy life! Europe is finally united. Each year more than a thousand visitors storm the Moa Casa.  Some are there to evaluate the trends and others to buy the newest in interior design. 200 exhibitors work their customers on 20,000 square meters. If you need a break from all the furniture, you don't need to walk very far: Next to the MOA Casa the MOA Gustibus offers tastes of traditional Italian specialties, and naturally for purchase, too.